Trip
Basics
Peru's southern
mountains are among the world's most spectacular scenery, and also provide
excellent birdwatching. We'll experience Cusco's Polylepis forest,
Apurimac's isolated cloud forest, Arequipa's salt lakes and Puno's altiplano and Lake Titicaca.
This promises to be a rewarding trip. It is also among our most
comfortable trips, with hotels every night, and most of them of excellent
quality.
Days: 15
Traveling Conditions: Hotels and food at good restaurants every night,
which necessitates pre-dawn driving on some days, but we should not have
to drive into the night. Roads are generally excellent.
Itinerary
Day 1
We'll begin the journey
with an easy day to adjust to the altitude, beginning at the ruins of
Saqsaywaman. The main target here will be Chestnut-breasted
Mountain-Finch, but many other typical highland birds will get us off to a
good start, possibly including Green-tailed Trainbearer, Cinereous
Conebill and Golden-billed Saltator. In the afternoon we'll drive to
Abancay where we'll set up in a comfortable hotel. Day 2
In the early morning, we'll walk up into the Ampay cloud forest. This
trail starts by passing through a scrubby slope, where we may find
Rust-and-yellow Tanager, Black-tailed Trainbearer, Mountain Velvetbreast,
Apurimac Thistletail (undescribed) and Rusty-fronted Canastero. As we reach the true
cloud forest, we'll begin to hear the calls of the local Apurimac
Spinetail, a skulker which we should see with some effort. Also in the
forest we will search for Apurimac Tapaculo (undescribed) and Undulated Antpitta while
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant is among the most common birds of the area.
We'll descend to Abancay in the afternoon and return to the hotel for the
night. Day 3
We'll make an early morning walk on the dry side of the valley near
Abancay, where we'll especially hope to find the local race of Pale-tailed
Canastero. Other birds in this dry habitat
include Mitred Parakeet, Black-backed Grosbeak and White-bellied
Hummingbird. We'll drive to Ollantaytambo in the afternoon, again staying
in a hotel. Day 4
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Peñas, just above Ollantaytambo, is home to a number of endemics and
other interesting birds, and we'll hope to find a number of these on this
morning. Creamy-crested Spinetail, White-tufted Sunbeam, Purple-backed
Thornbill and Andean Tinamou are among the many possibilities. |
In the late
morning, we'll move on the Abra Malaga, where we'll walk to a Polylepis
forest, which, although threatened by deforestation, still holds Royal
Cinclodes, Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant and Tawny and White-browed
Tit-Spinetails. In the late afternoon, we'll drive back to Ollantaytambo to
our hotel. Day 5
We'll make an early start, and arrive at the excellent high-elevation
forest at Canchayoc in the early morning. The main target here will be the
endemic Parodi's Hemispingus, but there are lots of birds to see,
including Plush-capped Finch, Rufous-capped Thornbill, White-browed
Conebill, Rufous Antpitta and Three-striped Hemispingus. In the afternoon,
we'll pass back past Abra Malaga and Peñas, birding as time permits to
pick up any missing species. In the evening, we'll take a train to Aguas
Calientes, the gate way to Machu Picchu. We'll spend the night in an
excellent hotel. Day 6
We'll have this full day around Machu Picchu, both to enjoy its birds
and the archeological wonders. In the morning we'll walk the train tracks
near town, hoping especially for Masked Fruiteater, Silver-backed Tanager
and Dusky-green Oropendola. In the afternoon, we'll have time to either
visit the ruins or check out the hummingbird feeders near town where we
could find Gould's Inca, Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Booted Racket-tail
among others. We'll spend the night in the same hotel. Day 7
We'll get the first bus up to the ruins, and walk the Inca Trail back
to town. This is always an interesting walk, beginning with the local
endemic Inca Wren and White-winged Black-Tyrant near the ruins and moving
down through good forest towards the Urubamba River. Among the denizens of
this forest are Pale-legged Warbler, Green-and-white Hummingbird,
Tricoloured Brush-Finch and Mitred Parakeet. In the afternoon, after a
delicious lunch, we'll catch a train back to Cusco for the night in a
hotel. Day 8
This will be a relaxing day, with the only event being the flight from
Cusco to Arequipa. Depending on the time of the flight (not yet
available), we may bird the road downhill from Arequipa where highlights
could include the local Greyish Miner. We'll spend the night in a good
hotel. Day 9
We'll drive to the Colca Canyon on this day, and spend the afternoon
in the area, looking especially for the impressive Puna Tinamou as well as
Puna Yellow-Finch and possibly Diademed Sandpiper-Plover. We'll spend the
night in a hotel in the area. Day 10
After enjoying good views of Andean Condors from the famous Mirador
Cruz del Condor, we'll drive back to Arequipa, birding along the way.
We'll hope for specialties such as Oasis Hummingbird and and Canyon
Canastero on the road. Day 11
This will be an exciting day, beginning in the Polylepis and
scrubland above Arequipa city. Here we'll look for the stunning
Black-hooded Sierra-Finch, Dark-winged Canastero and the rare Tamarugo Conebill as well as two
good Earthcreepers, Straight-billed and White-throated. We'll then move on
to the spectacle of Salinas, where hundreds of Flamingos (Chilean, Andean
and Puna) will colour the bleak surrounding landscape. Other birds in the
area could include Andean Avocet and Puna Miner. We'll drive on through
spectacular mountains to Puno for the night. We'll set up in a comfortable
hotel where we'll stay for the next four nights. Day 12
We'll drive on this day to the bleak puna to the south of Puno, where
we'll seek especially Lesser (Puna) Rhea, and also hope for Puna Canasteros and Scale-throated Earthcreeper. We'll
return to Puno for dinner and our hotel. Day 13
Another day trip from Puno will take us around Laguna Umayo, where
we'll find more dry puna birds. Among the avian fare could be Short-billed
Pipit, Golden-spotted Ground-Dove, Ornate Tinamou and Tawny-throated
Dotterel. Also of interest will be the Incan and pre-Incan
"tower-tombs" built high above the lake in the bleak landscape. Day 14
Again heading out of Puno in the morning, we'll head
for the the lake-lands near Huancané, north of Lake Titicaca. Waterbirds
are prolific in this area, and the possibilities include Red Shoveler,
White-backed Stilt, Yellow-winged Blackbird and a good selection of more
widespread Andean waterfowl. The main target will be the
Short-winged (Titicaca) Grebe. This flightless bird, although not
officially considered threatened, seems to be disappearing at an alarming
rate, and it will be a thrill to see it. Other birds we may find away from
the lakes themselves include Andean Hillstar and Black-winged Ground-Dove.
We'll again return to Puno for the night. Day 15
We'll spend the day driving the picturesque Puno-Cusco highway,
stopping in the afternoon at the Huacarpay Lakes. Here, we'll look for the
stunning endemic Bearded Mountaineer as well as Rusty-fronted Canastero or
even Streak-fronted Thornbird. Waterbirds will be similar to the Huancané
area, but Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant and Wren-like Rushbird should be
easier, and Yellow-winged Blackbirds are abundant. Hotel is not included
this night. |
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